Effervescent Refractions » Saison

Dupont Avec les Bons Voeux

Stephane — Thu, 13 Mar 2008 13:00:10 +0000

I’ve had bad luck with Saisons thus far, perhaps it isn’t the style for me. Dupont gave it a shot before, without success. Was it the smoky bar? My inexperience? I owed it to myself to give one of Belgium’s traditions another chance. After all, Belgian styles have never betrayed me, why should they start? Still, that impossibly dry mouthfeel and caustic carbonation didn’t sit right last time around. Nonsense! Here comes the pour. Les Voeux could hardly have started more beautifully. Golden as a mirabelle, its dense orange fog is set aglow by the light behind it. Pillowy, the dazzling white fluff laces lazily across the glass. A subtle aroma arises, light but fruity, and spicy too. Peach, apricot, nutmeg and some grain successively appear. The penetrating fragrance of Charentais melon plays jubilantly off of estery hints of bubble gum, banana and pineapple. Orange peel, clove and imperceptible coriander zest the concoction. In the background, a definite chalkiness and slightly sweet hint of funk are the hallmarks of authenticity. With renewed ambition, I take a confident sip. Funky – surprising and different – a dry cheesiness like a nutty Parmesan. Buttery hazelnut flavor is apparent throughout. The fruit is more subdued than I expected but despite copious alcohol none appears on the tongue. The frothy carbonation is pleasant, allowing for the sweetness of bubble gum and pineapple to really boogie. Finishing dry, a funky grainy thyme flavor leads to a somewhat salty aftertaste hinting at apricot. I am positively dying for a morsel of Parmigiano Reggiano, that addition alone would propel me to heaven. I’m glad I followed my instincts, Dupont has crafted a wonderful brew.

rating: 78/100

Fantôme d’Été

Stephane — Mon, 14 Aug 2006 18:46:58 +0000

Murky orange and topped of an opalescent puff of meringue that gradually reduces in tenacious bands of foam. Nutmeg and coriander classically pair with the citrussy aroma of orange peel, beautifully illustrating the paradigm of a Saison as the Madonnas of Raphael capture that of ideal beauty. Honey and abundant white chocolate contribute to the nectarean character that defines itself through an array of light fruits notably cherry, almond, apple and pear. The background is rich of biscuity grains and overflows with an entrancing fragrance of freshly baked brioche. This sweet bread character presents itself again in the flavor as a support for the dry, spicy blend of coriander and orange peel which makes this beer so precariously drinkable. Green apples frolic with a refreshing hop bitterness in the finish, lending pleasant sourness to the round mouthfeel also enhanced by a crisp and evident carbonation. There is no one season for Saison, as Fantôme acutely reminds again. Excellent!

rating: 78/100

Fantôme de Noël

Stephane — Sun, 28 May 2006 13:12:58 +0000

After a consecution of American brews it always seems natural for me to return to Belgian styles, as they are unequivocally closest to my tastes. This occurrence allowed me a first look at the brewery Fantôme, one that has eluded me for some time but always sparked a certain curiosity. The pour produced an eerie swamp-like body, a deep murky red hue topped of a custard colored foam that thins rapidly. A comforting scent of sweet pipe tobacco springs forth immediately and creates a welcoming atmosphere for the bouquet of coffee, black pepper, red wine and slightly green cocoa beans. The nose has an unusual texture, if I may even call it that; a somewhat spongy consistency that reminds of mushrooms and earthy essences. The palate is deep and rich and with a buttery smoothness that coats the mouth in its dense flavors. Some alcohol is present, a spicy vinous tone coupled with the unmistakable flavor of chocolate-covered coffee beans that extends to their distinctive dry aftertaste. A beer simply full of character and an enchanting flair fit for any conversely dull day of the year.

rating: 80/100

Saison Dupont Vielle Provision

Stephane — Sun, 22 Jan 2006 17:34:44 +0000

As I delve deeper into Belgium’s voluminous array of beers brewed by tradition and traditions formed from beer, I have begun to realize that this culture is far more expansive than I had imagined. Genre and style are almost meaningless in the face of what seems to be a continuous gradient of flavors, colors and methods. A taxonomist’s nightmare. Thus when I was confronted with Dupont’s defining product, I felt far from alien to this style I had little experience with - the Saison. In appearance it was actually mundane: a clouded auric wheat body freckled of countless small particles. Above, the white head was thin but left a surprisingly adhesive lace. The nose was of striking simplicity, reminding of apple, clay, banana, peach, sweet toffee and caramel. Not a bad aroma, but with a dominating ester profile and the tint of light malts. Although this was to be my first official “Belgian Saison”, I was not in unknown territory. The palate was what stunned me the most, and as I took a first sip, I nearly recoiled at the potent carbonation. At the tip of the tongue all flavor is extinguished by this explosive sensation, however as the liquid moves to the center of the mouth a distinct apple flavor is noticeable. Gradually I became accustomed to the feeling and began to discern peach and apricot, some spices and Gruyère. Appealing to the taste actually, but again the carbonation felt overdone. In the smoky bar of Amsterdam, it was difficult to drink. In retrospect, I was probably in a far from ideal situation to enjoy the experience. I will give it another try some day, if I stop in Belgium’s countryside during the summer, where I feel the drink may be more appropriate.

rating: 66/100

Ommegang Hennepin

Stephane — Thu, 01 Dec 2005 04:28:48 +0000

I picked up Hennepin after my somewhat disappointing experience with Ommegang as I am always willing to give any brewer another chance. I was more cautious this time and purchased only a single bottle, which I noticed bore a significant layer of sediment. The occasion seemed appropriate for my Kwak glass and it was a good choice showcasing Hennepin’s fluffy cloud-like head and murky gold body. The nose took me by surprise. On the first sniff, I thought someone had furtively switched my beer with Coors Light or one of its compeers. Surely I was not the subject of some sinister pratical joke so I led a more careful investigation and picked up notes of citrus and pineapple underlaid by brown sugar and toasty malts. The flavor had a bit more density than I expected but still reverbated the simplistic aroma. This seems like a mediocre attempt at a Belgian blonde ale rather than a Saison. There are much better, readily available alternatives out there such as Don de Dieu (to name only one).

rating: 60/100