Effervescent Refractions » reviews

Boon Framboise Mariage Parfait

Stephane — Sat, 19 Jul 2008 16:17:23 +0000

Rosy-bodied and pink-topped, it’s tough to look manly with a glass of Boon’s craft in hand. Aromatically though, the fruit’s luscious intensity is about as delicate as a jackhammer. Strawberry cheesecake, grape candy, red apple and raspberry jelly; there’s pie crust and peaches, brown sugar and cookies. All this is only meagerly balanced by well-aged hops, but no matter, the variegated fruit flavors are truly inspiring. As for the flavor, imagine The Shining’s elevators spewing torrents of raspberry syrup instead of blood. Surprisingly dry, the fruit is full but not cloying and the fine carbonation adds wonderful texture to the experience. Hints of fig, browned butter, oak and black cherry, a finishing touch of blackcurrant, it’s an impressive brew. If it had further explored those sour notes of leather, this certainly would approach perfection in the realm of fruit lambics. For those outsiders who deem a pink fruit beer girly, let me again borrow from Jack Nicholson’s oeuvre and say “YOU CAN’T HANDLE THE FRUIT!”

rating: 90/100

Grottenbier Brune

Stephane — Sat, 19 Jul 2008 15:00:11 +0000

This intriguing cave-aged brew pours a light chestnut brown with ruddy highlights and a large puffy beige head which laces beautifully in sheets and rings around the glass. Certainly complex, the nose is strikingly nutty, coincidentally suggesting candied chestnuts (marrons glacés), walnuts and plenty of hazelnuts. Genuine vanilla bean is in ample supply and very attractively highlighted by browned butter and salted-butter caramel. Perhaps I was synesthetically influenced by the description, but the nose had a damp, almost mossy spice component. Spice cake, prunes, raspberries and black pepper also lend to the complexity. The flavor continues to suggest hazelnuts, though rye bread and heavy yeast aspects are also dominant. The mouthfeel is exceptionally silky, reminiscent of a good cappuccino. Dried fruits become increasingly intense as the beer warms. Particularly apparent are dried pears, apricots and figs, each lending a vinous tone to this fascinating brew. A subtle but enjoyable earthy sourness lingers with the remaining malt bitterness. Well balanced, this an exciting, unique and eminently drinkable beer. A delicate and thoughtful effort that ages well and obviously garners my respect for Pierre Celis.

rating: 80/100

St Feuillien Triple

Stephane — Sat, 19 Jul 2008 14:57:35 +0000

Bright and golden like acacia honey, this brew’s lively carbonation exhales a fluffy long-lasting white head. Potently aromatic like many tripels, St Feuillien’s take suggests the usual blend of sweet grains and classic overtones of bubble gum, soapy banana and pineapple esters. Unmistakable coconut shavings, biscuits, lemon peel and waxy honey present the certain idiosyncrasies of this beer. Deeper investigation yields hints of green mint, leather, cigar smoke and white grapes. An undeniably attractive though almost cloying aroma. Fluffy and ripe, the mouthfeel follows were the nose left off, starting sharp with citrus tones and quickly moving to spices and bubble gum. Ample grains carry a satisfying and balancing dryness as the finish leans towards a slightly herbaceous tone of basil and pepper. The alcohol isn’t felt until a lingering heat warms the back of the tongue. Initially this seems to be a rather formulaic brew, but as the glass warms up the spice profile becomes especially intriguing, suggesting clove, black pepper and slightly musty peach flavor. St Feuillien has crafted a dynamic and enjoyable tripel that definitely ranks on the higher end of the style.

rating: 76/100

Abbaye des Rocs Altitude 6

Stephane — Mon, 16 Jun 2008 13:43:37 +0000

It seems tough to admit, but Belgium’s brewing climate today has little to do with the monastic tradition so often advertised. I can’t help but raise an eyebrow when I see borrowed ecclesiastical titles, as if they somehow elevate the product to a divine status. Abbaye des Rocs awakened this concern during my initial encounter. Fortunately, as I explored their profound talent, I realized this is a brewery thats put little effort in polishing its image, and focuses instead on a truly exceptional set of beers. A remarkable endeavor. Des Rocs’ habit of leaving ‘unsightly’ sediment in the bottles never bothered me in the least, but I was surprised to find a relatively clear brew this time around. The lively apricot color glows deeply, and a creamy off-white head puffs up above. The aroma is equally bright and summery, but rich and complex as well. Honey and abundant grains form the unmistakable smell of Miel Pops, one of my childhood breakfast cereals in France. The subtle balance of spices and vegetal components adds surprising intricacy for a basic offering. Nutmeg, coriander, pepper and buttery asparagus are particularly notable. The palate finds a light, creamy and very easy-drinking ale. There’s a touch of minerality that seems perfect for a hot day. Sweet grains are present, and the chalky lemony yeastiness gives an air of witbier. The spices are perfectly balanced with both hops and malts, suggesting hints of peach and coffee. There’s a definite sweetness throughout, but it remains authentic and the subtle dryness and sourness in the finish continually encourage another sip. Perfectly sessionable and drinking well after it’s second birthday, it’s another stunning beer from des Rocs.

rating: 76/100

Drie Fonteinen J&J Roze

Stephane — Wed, 04 Jun 2008 12:41:15 +0000

Much touted, highly elusive, here’s a beer from a favorite brewer that just couldn’t disappoint. The frosty orange hue shows pretty nuances of pink, topped of a simple white cream. The nose displays a flabbergasting array of fruits and flowers. The house character is reflected through notes of peach, apricot, oaky vanilla and the unique sweetness of brown sugar. Lavender and rose add an unusual but remarkably pleasant touch, as the aroma slowly unfolds. Mango, apple, tangerine and pineapple proceed one after the other as the brew warms up expressively. The background is a true lambic foundation of cheesy, dusty, cobwebby scents that marry beautifully with honey and cotton candy. The flavor perfectly balances sweet, sour and dry. Raspberry and cherry are prominent at first as the palate shifts to an enjoyable dry Gruyère flavor and finishes on a smoky cedar note. The sourness remains smooth, almost yogurt-like, never impeding on the equilibrium of fruits and spices. Cinnamon, clove, white pepper and potpourri appear subtly with time. Like many high-quality lambics, this one becomes incredibly complex and delicious near room temperature. Another outstanding gueuze from Drie Fonteinen.

rating: 86/100

De Dolle Arabier

Stephane — Sat, 31 May 2008 13:51:29 +0000

It’s always a pleasure to taste something from De Dolle, their Arabier is no exception as it pours a slightly hazy but bright gold. The fluffy white head is a work of architecture in itself. Sudsy on top, a moat of fine bubbles sinks around the edges of the glass, producing what looks to be a medieval tower barricaded with thick lacing. Fragrant despite this large head, the nose particularly emphasizes noble hops. An almost cheesy hop component is present and pleasant, accompanied of sweet grains and honey. Herbal aspects are also apparent, denoting thyme and tarragon. This is a light and summery aroma, but don’t think it simple, it’s another Daedalian brew from De Dolle. Hints of banana, pineapple, soap and apple pull you in all different directions. The flavor evolves wildly on the palate starting surprisingly sweet with creamy white honey and a fine tingling of carbonation. Quickly it moves to ample grains and light fruity flavors of peach and hoppy grapefruit, it’s astoundingly balanced. The dry peppery finish leads to an almost smoky and cheesy aftertaste, when finally, coffee appears several seconds after the swallow. Harmonious, drinkable, excellent. I could analyze this one all day, instead I’ll simply urge you to try it for yourself.

rating: 80/100

Cantillon Iris

Stephane — Sun, 18 May 2008 21:08:23 +0000

I must admit, I always approach Cantillon with apprehension. I’m as fanatic about lambic as one can be, but time and time again Cantillon has never quite done it for me. Still, I appreciate the beauty of the effort; it’s sad to see the tradition wane and for that reason alone I feel compelled to continue enjoying their brews as much as I possibly can. The Iris pours a cloudy but bright orange hue, glowing deeply with the color of a fresh apricot. The creamy off-white head is fairly ordinary which makes me wonder why crazy head formations are rarely seen among lambics. The aroma is exciting, and bests most Cantillons I’ve had before. Beautifully funky, the house character is present but softer and perhaps more cheesy than usual (a positive note, in my regard). Apricot lends a certain tartness, as do the tangerines and peaches. The cheesecake and brown sugar add a luscious sweetness to balance the nose. Surprisingly ash also is apparent, giving a slight smoky note that I wouldn’t have expected. The flavor isn’t as puckering as usual but Cantillon’s touch is certainly present. Perhaps more dilute, this lambic is greatly refreshing especially served on the cool side. The minerality is pleasant, working well with both fresh hops and fresh cheese. Green apple and melon add zest and balance while the long finish continues to echo a flavorful cheesy funk profile. Didn’t think I would attain Cantillon enlightenment on this brew, but I’m certainly happy I did. An excellent lambic!

rating: 84/100

Urthel Tonicum Finiboldhus

Stephane — Sun, 18 May 2008 10:17:50 +0000

Thick and creamy, beautiful waves of foam seem almost iridescent atop this marmalade orange body. Despite the crowding sediment this is another gorgeous brew from Urthel, highlighted by superb lacing. The nose is attractive and unique as I have come to expect from Hildegard’s craft. The delightful smell of fromage blanc lends a smooth, fresh character accompanied by a slight lactic sourness. Scents of honey and butter add to that rich and sweet sensation, while the subtle notes of coriander, clove and banana lend additional complexity. The mouthfeel is more textural than flavorful, fluffy as whipped cream. Sadly a certain blandness takes over. Strawberry, caramel, plum and toast are apparent but don’t seem decisive enough. The experience is not completely amiss as this brew retains quite a rich body, a buttery yeasty quality that remains very drinkable. Finishing sweet with a hint of coffee, this a decent beer with enough unique accents to make it worth seeking out.

rating: 70/100

Thiriez La Rouge Flamande

Stephane — Sat, 17 May 2008 13:06:03 +0000

Topped of a thick rosy head, La Rouge Flamande has the color of a ripe strawberry. The slight haze imparts a bucolic air to this surprisingly seductive-looking ale. The aroma starts light and springy, showing hops and woodland berries – particularly raspberries and wild strawberries. The dusty cobwebs and subtle sourness imply a rustic heritage though this nose remains decidedly fresh and vivacious. Hints of bubble gum, vanilla and grains add to the ebullient smell. Transitioning to the palate, this beer retains more of its richness than anticipated. The strong malty backbone is founded on buttered toast slathered with honey. Caramel adds to the balance. Raspberry and blackberry show up again among the light fruit and hop flavor. This is an ale crafted for drinkability. I found the flavors somewhat muted even after the late apparition of coffee bean, but there’s something to be said about a refreshing joyful brew like this one.

rating: 64/100

Iron Man

Stephane — Tue, 13 May 2008 21:47:57 +0000

Exactly what you expect from a high-budget Marvel blockbuster: CG and explosions. The cast is surprisingly convincing with a special nod to Gwyneth Paltrow who plays the recurrently red-headed superhero girlfriend with more depth than your average Dunst. Definitely treads among first tier movies of the genre.

rating: 70/100