Effervescent Refractions » geuze

Drie Fonteinen J&J Roze

Stephane — Wed, 04 Jun 2008 12:41:15 +0000

Much touted, highly elusive, here’s a beer from a favorite brewer that just couldn’t disappoint. The frosty orange hue shows pretty nuances of pink, topped of a simple white cream. The nose displays a flabbergasting array of fruits and flowers. The house character is reflected through notes of peach, apricot, oaky vanilla and the unique sweetness of brown sugar. Lavender and rose add an unusual but remarkably pleasant touch, as the aroma slowly unfolds. Mango, apple, tangerine and pineapple proceed one after the other as the brew warms up expressively. The background is a true lambic foundation of cheesy, dusty, cobwebby scents that marry beautifully with honey and cotton candy. The flavor perfectly balances sweet, sour and dry. Raspberry and cherry are prominent at first as the palate shifts to an enjoyable dry Gruyère flavor and finishes on a smoky cedar note. The sourness remains smooth, almost yogurt-like, never impeding on the equilibrium of fruits and spices. Cinnamon, clove, white pepper and potpourri appear subtly with time. Like many high-quality lambics, this one becomes incredibly complex and delicious near room temperature. Another outstanding gueuze from Drie Fonteinen.

rating: 86/100

De Neve Gueuze

Stephane — Fri, 16 Feb 2007 22:09:32 +0000

Served in its tumbler and straw basket at De Heeren, I was excited to try yet another vintage gueuze, this time De Neve’s 1999. I regrettably find the tumbler to be a rather unpropitious glass for most aspects of beer drinking, so what may have truly stood out in appearance was unfortunately diminished. Slightly hazy and deep apricot in color, what head formed was creamy and white, rather beautiful I must say, but stunted by the glass’ poor shape. The aroma is quite enticing, though at first overwhelmingly sour. A simple blend of red apples, peach, apricot and lemon form the fruity team, while caramel and brown sugar assist in supporting sweetness. Very little funkiness to speak of, and this becomes obvious on the palate. Apricot and banana nectar build a thick pulp-like consistency, added to the same red apples and brown sugar. The sourness here is quite intense, but isn’t redeemed by balancing complexity and so goes to waste, washing up on the back palate to leave a long apple aftertaste. I may seem critical of this gueuze, but it really is a fun brew, I was simply hoping for more and would rather return to tried and true examples.

rating: 76/100

De Cam Geuze

Stephane — Thu, 14 Sep 2006 22:40:06 +0000

As my lambic week-end came to a close, I decided I ought to give De Cam’s geuze a try for the sake of being thorough (not to mention my love of the style). Up until then, my knowledge of the spontaneously-fermented covered a healthy range but one involving above all the primary protagonists, which sadly seem to be swamping what used to be a rich and diverse tradition. Nonetheless one can only respect the few remaining brewers untainted by the sweet smell of money, and De Cam is surely one of them. Served in the classic tumbler (though not my glassware of choice), this geuze appeared golden and clear, not exceptionally attractive in color but topped of a resplendent alpine head - dense, spongy and coalescing to a husky hoop. To the nose, sweet dried fruits composed a mingling array introduced by raisin and banana, followed by the juicier pear and apple aroma. A noticeable blend of mild cheddar and gouda produced the necessary funk profile, to which the acrimonious scent of rubber added an unpleasant tonality. Proceeding to the tongue, one notices all the basic elements of geuze notably a dry sourness, hints of apple and rubber again, but generally a lack of originality and direction. While some blenders emphasize the sour, others the fruit, and others yet the barnyard scents, I found that De Cam took a very primordial approach which I suppose allows a certain accessibility but seems merely the sketch of a great geuze. The finishing cheesy note and lightly nutty aftertaste does redeem this nevertheless excellent example, but it is clearly not one of the phenomenal.

rating: 80/100

Belle-Vue Sélection Lambic

Stephane — Mon, 28 Aug 2006 11:24:36 +0000

Belle-Vue has sadly become yet another symbol of the crumbling lambic tradition and one more strike on the shortening list of obstructionists. Yet, like many of the brewery’s coconspirators its roots lies in a very tangible and rather exceptional product. I was lucky enough to try the Gueuze Sélection, one of the few remaining examples due for extinction. The vintage was 1999 and poured a burnt orange body wreathed in mirabelle yellow highlights and a ring of white foam. The nose is filled with a myriad of luscious fruits. Apricot, cherry, orange, lemon, apple and melon liqueur share the scene with a tint of vanilla and a chewy, cheesy character that I can’t quite put my finger on. There’s a definite individuality pronounced by the aroma, dissociating this gueuze from any other and defining the personality of the blender. I find it fascinating to notice within the style’s very restrictive palette, tones repeatedly emphasized by the artist and unique aspects found in none other. The flavor of Belle-Vue’s Sélection parades this even further with intensely and almost gratuitously sour mordant which serves to underscore the smelly socks, Comté-like pungency. Apricot and lemon tones echo what can be salvaged from the fruity fragrance as an attempt to leverage the lacerating acidity while its well carbonated texture tells me this lambic may still be on its way to a peak. While I prefer the refined and more balanced offerings of the region, it was truly an experience to remember.

rating: 82/100

De Troch Gueuze

Stephane — Sun, 27 Aug 2006 14:04:36 +0000

Sebastian (DerDoppelbock) and I had ourselves a great lambic tasting which we kicked off with two bottles from Joris’ cellar, the first being De Troch’s Gueuze - a bottle dating from the 80s but whose precise vintage couldn’t be determined by any inquisition. Despite its age, the gueuze was still showing signs of life as it formed a presentable froth dissimulating the crepuscular brass body. Surprisingly open and airy, the aroma was showing exceptional complexity mingling the fruity tones of green apples, cherries and apricots to a distinctly sweet blend of brown sugar, mild caramel and unmistakable guimauve. The dusty oak profile adds just the necessary hint of maturity but there’s no chance I would have deduced its age in a blind tasting. On the palate, springy carbonation and dry flavors overtly remind of Champagne, subtly tangled in brown sugar, apple and vanilla. The parching finish leaves a sticky sweet Emmental aftertaste on the tongue pleasingly fading with time. I’m full of awe at how well this gueuze has aged and can only humbly thank my benefactors.

rating: 84/100

Girardin Gueuze Black Label

Stephane — Wed, 28 Jun 2006 19:42:24 +0000

Following my recent and rather lauding appraisal of the familial White Label, this beer could not have built more anticipation. This unfiltered version poured an expectably hazier and denser body, but its resinous pumpkin hue was no less alluring. The white foam rapidly recedes revealing a plethora of mouth-watering scents. Fruits are more noticeable on the forefront, particularly sweet apricots, peaches and a wonderful smultron aroma that accompanies those of sour apple and pear. Some of the tangy, terroir odors of Gruyère and grass that were so strong in the White Label are present here, in an albeit diluted fashion. A malty background composed of brown sugar and toffee highlighted by vanilla and oak, give the nose a very complete and balanced feel. The flavor benefits of a comparable evolution beginning with a dry, woody, Champagne explosion on the tip of the tongue, progressively shifting to a buttery, coating mouthfeel that resonates of caramel and honey flavors, sustained by a fruitier background of cherries and lemon. Somewhat rounder, softer, perhaps a tad more sour than the White Label and with notably less funk from the cheese and spice section. Emmental is nonetheless present in the long aftertaste, accentuated by notes of pepper and toast. Another exceptional gueuze that, to my palate, rises just above its filtered sibling by virtue of an incredibly pleasing texture, though it offers a slightly different bouquet. Both are worth your effort.

rating: 90/100

Girardin Gueuze White Label

Stephane — Wed, 21 Jun 2006 18:50:50 +0000

An absolutely magnificent gueuze, the clear pomegranate body glints of oscillating pinkish and blazing orange hues beneath a light beige mousse that dwindles to a thin bubbly film circumscribed by an austere ring. The nose immediately reminds of sour fruits, particularly apple and mouth-watering cherries. Champagne, white grapes, orange and dragées are also present suggestive of a certain sweetness that binds the strong terroir odors of cheese and spices. Gorgonzola and sharp Gruyère form a distinctive musty aroma associated with those of ham and pepper that leave me salivating before my glass. The first contact with the tongue reveals a dry carbonation, flavors of Champagne and grapefruit which rapidly flow into a much sweeter, almost sticky sensation of apple juice, acacia honey, oak and wet straw. The finish is dusty and dry, leading to a triumphant aftertaste that coats the palate and lingers with fantastic complexity. Soft cow cheeses are very present, reminding particularly of Emmental and Chimay à la bière especially in its grassy apricot notes. I actually had a center cut of Emmental on the side and the match was simply divine - my taste buds are piqued by the thought alone. I was amazed to find it widely considered the “lesser” version of the Black Label, though I should mention my bottle was well aged (a few months past its best before date), which may have contributed to its wonderful pungency. A truly exquisite beer.

rating: 88/100

Drie Fonteinen Oude Geuze 1998

Stephane — Fri, 24 Feb 2006 15:40:00 +0000

Over a month ago, during my trip to Amsterdam I had the chance of visiting De Bierkoning, a store whose praiseful reputation is genuinely well founded. After gaping at the enormous selection found upstairs, I proceeded to the cramped lambic cellar where two gems caught my eye. On the bottommost shelf were two small sets of dusty bottles whose green glass still emitted a slight twinkle among the wrinkles of time. I grasped one by its neck and gently dusted off the label feeling like an archeologist in an ancient Egyptian tomb. “1998″. Ah! What a wonderful year marked by France’s win in the World Cup and as I was about to discover, the creation of an outstanding brew.

Back in Paris, the pour in my Rochefort glass produced an obfuscated crepuscular melon color with no visible carbonation. The head, of an off-white hue, was dynamic, its bubbles of varying sizes creating wondrous patterns. Raspberries emerged at the pop of the cork, filling the nose with a delectable fragrance. Fruits of all kinds flood the aroma, releasing apple, sour cherries, pineapple, passion fruit and with warming some wild strawberries. The incredible complexity is further augmented by the odors of Champagne, brown sugar, soap, vanilla, cider, rose and mint. An exceptional concoction that subtly cools the nasal cavity much like freshly crushed mint. On the tongue apricot dominates initially while sweet peaches deliberately appear with time. A complex Champagne flavor is emphasized while the liquid is still cool but spearmint is quickly revealed along with a citrussy combination of unsweetened grapefruit and lemon that lingers after the swallow. The carbonation is well preserved and feels surprisingly tingling as it complements the body perfectly before flowing into a velvety finish on the back of the tongue. One might compare the aftertaste to New Belgium’s La Folie, though the sourness is further accompanied by fruits, notably apricot. The ascerbity leaves a wide grin on my face, the final mark of a remarkable brew.

rating: 90/100