Effervescent Refractions » Belgian Strong Ale

De Dolle Arabier

Stephane — Sat, 31 May 2008 13:51:29 +0000

It’s always a pleasure to taste something from De Dolle, their Arabier is no exception as it pours a slightly hazy but bright gold. The fluffy white head is a work of architecture in itself. Sudsy on top, a moat of fine bubbles sinks around the edges of the glass, producing what looks to be a medieval tower barricaded with thick lacing. Fragrant despite this large head, the nose particularly emphasizes noble hops. An almost cheesy hop component is present and pleasant, accompanied of sweet grains and honey. Herbal aspects are also apparent, denoting thyme and tarragon. This is a light and summery aroma, but don’t think it simple, it’s another Daedalian brew from De Dolle. Hints of banana, pineapple, soap and apple pull you in all different directions. The flavor evolves wildly on the palate starting surprisingly sweet with creamy white honey and a fine tingling of carbonation. Quickly it moves to ample grains and light fruity flavors of peach and hoppy grapefruit, it’s astoundingly balanced. The dry peppery finish leads to an almost smoky and cheesy aftertaste, when finally, coffee appears several seconds after the swallow. Harmonious, drinkable, excellent. I could analyze this one all day, instead I’ll simply urge you to try it for yourself.

rating: 80/100

Urthel Tonicum Finiboldhus

Stephane — Sun, 18 May 2008 10:17:50 +0000

Thick and creamy, beautiful waves of foam seem almost iridescent atop this marmalade orange body. Despite the crowding sediment this is another gorgeous brew from Urthel, highlighted by superb lacing. The nose is attractive and unique as I have come to expect from Hildegard’s craft. The delightful smell of fromage blanc lends a smooth, fresh character accompanied by a slight lactic sourness. Scents of honey and butter add to that rich and sweet sensation, while the subtle notes of coriander, clove and banana lend additional complexity. The mouthfeel is more textural than flavorful, fluffy as whipped cream. Sadly a certain blandness takes over. Strawberry, caramel, plum and toast are apparent but don’t seem decisive enough. The experience is not completely amiss as this brew retains quite a rich body, a buttery yeasty quality that remains very drinkable. Finishing sweet with a hint of coffee, this a decent beer with enough unique accents to make it worth seeking out.

rating: 70/100

Unibroue 15

Stephane — Fri, 21 Mar 2008 11:14:31 +0000

Very cloudy mirabelle gold, the annual brew is crowned of an opalescent froth, not unlike beaten egg whites. Light, springy and spicy, the buttery nose suggests a tripel-like combination of scents. Sweet yeasty grains are associated with apricot, peach and clementine. Hints of coriander, white pepper, vanilla, cookie and marshmallow add pleasant layers of complexity. On the palate it is definitely a textural affair. Frothy and buttery, dry but sweet, the carbonation is quite vivacious and alcohol is present. Citrus and coriander reappear along with notes of pineapple. The oral experience is less exciting, but overall this is another nice beer from Unibroue.

rating: 74/100

Russian River Damnation

Stephane — Wed, 12 Mar 2008 10:24:44 +0000

Somewhat shrouded, light and gold, Damnation is topped of a beautifully innocent puffy white head. Redolent esters are the emphasis of this nose, a springy mix of banana, bubble gum, pineapple and pear. That almost inimitable yeasty, buttery quality that defines true Belgians is present and auspicious. Coriander, orange peel, hints of honey and clove add just the perfect touch of spice. The flavor on the other had, is somewhat disappointing. Seemingly bland at first, the wateriness eventually finds its refreshing mineral quality. Chalky, almost dusty, the frothy texture matches the light flavor accented by hints of lime and pear. A slight sugary sweetness graces the tip of the tongue but disappears leaving a rather dry body. Black pepper and hops appear very subtly. Despite being so simple, the flavor is difficult to define, yet certainly fun to drink (an adjective I use sparingly). Overall, I believe my colleague Oakes put it perfectly, Russian River has crafted a precision brew. Damnation strikes a careful balance that can hardly be found outside of a few Belgian breweries. Kudos.

rating: 74/100

Pizza Port Cuvée de Tomme

Stephane — Mon, 02 Jul 2007 14:05:31 +0000

Following its base, the “Mother of All Beers”, the black-labeled Cuvée de Tomme was an exciting event. Similar in color, the dark body gleamed with a raspberry tinge, presumably reddened by the added cherries. Above, a thick beige foam is strongly erected. Cherries reappear on the nose, sour and juicy, initiating a complex string of scents that seemingly blends the classic Flemish Red components with a deeper and darker foundation. Brown sugar and a profusion oak-induced vanillin add to the rapidly snowballing aroma. This explosive bouquet suggests marshmallow, fig newtons, white chocolate, macadamia nuts, notes of caramel and cinnamon, blueberry and even garlic. An eclectic and exhilarating blend that begs for a sip. I don’t hesitate to indulge. Starting with milk chocolate covered cherries, the flavor comprises a resonating mid-range of whipped cream, vanilla, hazelnut, cardamom and raspberry, finishing with a sweet woody flavor and a hint of teriyaki. The aftertaste is sweet and sour, a long-lasting malty cherry flavor. Unique, to say the least, I found the sourness amplified and more appropriate than it was in the Mother of All Beers. An exceptional brew overall, daring but balanced, creative, and very rewarding for those who can endure chasing the elusive.

rating: 86/100

Unibroue Seigneuriale

Stephane — Fri, 13 Apr 2007 19:25:49 +0000

Hazy, but bright orange in color, a soft mattress of yellowish foam sits densely above. Papaya, mango and banana form an exotic cocktail on the nose, while subtle notes of nutmeg allspice and cardamom provide great balance and complexity. The smooth orange aroma evokes those popsicles with a creamy center, adding to the honey sweetness. The quiet notes that compose the flavor are well balanced, allowing the soft carbonation to froth pleasantly on the tongue. Buttered toast, orange peel, mango and white chocolate are blended with creamy spices, represented primarily by nutmeg. The sweet buttered toast and honey aftertaste is very relaxing and refreshing. Seigneuriale is an excellent beer that suffers from its somewhat understated flavors, but in the proper context I could see its refreshing palate to be very enjoyable.

rating: 72/100

‘t IJ Columbus

Stephane — Sat, 17 Feb 2007 18:55:32 +0000

A survivor of my trip to Amsterdam over a year beforehand, I was afraid the Columbus might have succumbed to its age - but how wrong I was. Dark apricot in color, a mountainous beige pillow lathers above. Well-buttered southern biscuits flourish on the nose alongside asparagus, peanuts, cookie, brown sugar and pineapple. An eclectic aroma, amusing to decorticate, but perhaps lacking balance or unity. The flavor suffers a similar predicament, suggesting burnt toast, banana, mango and hints of pepper and coffee. Smooth and finishing with a long fruity aftertaste, ‘t IJ always seems to please by its exotic profile and indubitable quality. A solid effort, just not the brewery’s best.

rating: 70/100

N’Ice Chouffe

Stephane — Thu, 08 Feb 2007 22:32:21 +0000

Finalizing the annual series of brumal Belgians, N’Ice Chouffe was without a doubt the most gustatorily enjoyable and visually magnetic. Dark chestnut in color, its top was fluffed as a pillow, beige, and left behind thick foamy rings as it receded. The aroma was decidedly apt for the season, full of rich malts and spices, its structured complexity building upon a base of creamy milk chocolate and café au lait. Subtle notes of nutmeg, licorice, pepper and vanilla are revealed sequentially. As custard begins to take shape on the nose a combination of plum, fig and asparagus provides elegant and uncommon balance, a mature, exquisite profile. Chestnut reappears upon the taste buds this time, beside hazelnuts, artichoke, grapes and raisins. The palate, once more, inspires maturity with highlights of coffee, pepper, anise, cream and dried pear, a surprising stature I didn’t expect. The mouthfeel is smooth and opulent, with hints of malty bitterness and a long coffee finish. Those Belgian gnomes never cease to amaze me.

rating: 86/100

Abbaye des Rocs Noël

Stephane — Sun, 04 Feb 2007 00:50:13 +0000

Another Belgian interpretation of the holiday season, another definition of the Christmas atmosphere. I can’t help but notice as I accumulate this wonderful collection of beers, how varied they are and how accurately their conglomerate portrays my emotions. This Abbaye des Rocs pours with the the usual chunkiness and a ruddy complexion, topped in an attractive, speckled white froth. The aroma is salient, full of sweet spices and rich malts, interwoven with delicate notes of Bourbon and the sourness of Champagne. Nutmeg, black pepper, cloves, anise, allspice and lemon peel are paired with milk chocolate, mild coffee and caramel. Fruity white wine appears as well, highlighting figs, dates and dried pears alongside cashews, raisins and cream. The full spectrum of coffee develops on the tongue, from the astringent bitterness of espresso to the smooth complexity of latte. Sweet chocolate, caramel, bread and a hint of smoke reinforce this malty palate and provide padding for the warming alcohol. Peppermint, anise and Amaretto add the subtle but necessary layer of complexity rounding the mouthfeel. More carbonation than I expected from des Rocs, but the brew makes up for it with a long roasted aftertaste to leave you melting in your armchair.

rating: 82/100

Russian River Salvation

Stephane — Sun, 21 Jan 2007 14:56:30 +0000

Clear but deep in color, Salvation pours with a nearly purple hue and a beautiful fluffy cream that laces in thick rings. Its aroma is very obviously vinous, with the depth of Cabernet and the light sourness of Champagne. Apple cider vinegar appears prominently alongside oak, vanilla and custard, while hints of cinnamon, anise, fig, caramel and Gouda provide ample complexity. The nose is quite light for such a dark looking beer, but decidedly unique. With such a graceful invitation, the flavor is rather shocking, melding dry coffee, smoke and Roquefort. Raisins and Champagne don a subtle sourness to which perfumy herbal connotations are added reminiscent of lavender and rosemary. Texturally, the fine carbonation and smooth mouthfeel fit the vinous character, while a finishing dryness promotes the coffee and oak flavors of the aftertaste. An intriguing effort that seems to close the gap between wine and beer.

rating: 76/100