Effervescent Refractions » Belgian Ale

Abbaye des Rocs Altitude 6

Stephane — Mon, 16 Jun 2008 13:43:37 +0000

It seems tough to admit, but Belgium’s brewing climate today has little to do with the monastic tradition so often advertised. I can’t help but raise an eyebrow when I see borrowed ecclesiastical titles, as if they somehow elevate the product to a divine status. Abbaye des Rocs awakened this concern during my initial encounter. Fortunately, as I explored their profound talent, I realized this is a brewery thats put little effort in polishing its image, and focuses instead on a truly exceptional set of beers. A remarkable endeavor. Des Rocs’ habit of leaving ‘unsightly’ sediment in the bottles never bothered me in the least, but I was surprised to find a relatively clear brew this time around. The lively apricot color glows deeply, and a creamy off-white head puffs up above. The aroma is equally bright and summery, but rich and complex as well. Honey and abundant grains form the unmistakable smell of Miel Pops, one of my childhood breakfast cereals in France. The subtle balance of spices and vegetal components adds surprising intricacy for a basic offering. Nutmeg, coriander, pepper and buttery asparagus are particularly notable. The palate finds a light, creamy and very easy-drinking ale. There’s a touch of minerality that seems perfect for a hot day. Sweet grains are present, and the chalky lemony yeastiness gives an air of witbier. The spices are perfectly balanced with both hops and malts, suggesting hints of peach and coffee. There’s a definite sweetness throughout, but it remains authentic and the subtle dryness and sourness in the finish continually encourage another sip. Perfectly sessionable and drinking well after it’s second birthday, it’s another stunning beer from des Rocs.

rating: 76/100

Thiriez La Rouge Flamande

Stephane — Sat, 17 May 2008 13:06:03 +0000

Topped of a thick rosy head, La Rouge Flamande has the color of a ripe strawberry. The slight haze imparts a bucolic air to this surprisingly seductive-looking ale. The aroma starts light and springy, showing hops and woodland berries – particularly raspberries and wild strawberries. The dusty cobwebs and subtle sourness imply a rustic heritage though this nose remains decidedly fresh and vivacious. Hints of bubble gum, vanilla and grains add to the ebullient smell. Transitioning to the palate, this beer retains more of its richness than anticipated. The strong malty backbone is founded on buttered toast slathered with honey. Caramel adds to the balance. Raspberry and blackberry show up again among the light fruit and hop flavor. This is an ale crafted for drinkability. I found the flavors somewhat muted even after the late apparition of coffee bean, but there’s something to be said about a refreshing joyful brew like this one.

rating: 64/100

Pizza Port Le Woody

Stephane — Tue, 24 Jul 2007 20:11:14 +0000

Poured a clear gold, the fuzzy white head dissipates with unfortunate haste. Luckily, the aroma it reveals is absolutely enthralling by its complexity. Monstrous oak rages at first, unleashing a profusion of vanillin. Soon, an oddly nostalgic scent sets in – a combination of aromas that reminds very vividly of childhood carnivals. The ever-present pony stand is in full frame, and from it emanate funky aromas of straw and manure. Sweet smells of nearby vendors begin to pour in. I would have begun tugging at my mother’s dress and pointing at the caramelized apples and fluffy clouds of bright pink cotton candy, but this time I sunk my nose deeper in the glass. Rapidly, the fragrance transitions through a beautiful range of fragrances, starting sweet with brown sugar and raw cane sugar, following with allspice, apricot, peach, orange, blackcurrant and white raisins. My patience begins to dwindle and I take a swift gulp. An explosion of sweet fruit coats the palate, balanced by a springy sourness and a dollop of cream. Apricot and hints of Gruyère lend a funky fruit flavor, enthusiastically accompanied by tangy yogurt. The fruit is full of sunshine evoking, red apples, white grapes, peach, orange, raspberry and red groseilles. Vanilla ice cream acts as a rich and cool counterweight giving the finishing touch of banana its thickness. The sweet and sour combination is precisely tuned and a pulpy apple texture leaves the palate satisfied. The only complaint that to me resonates throughout Tomme Arthur’s oeuvre, and particularly this brew, is the decidedly over-oaked flavor which I am afraid is invading the American beer market as it already has the wine. The inception of an American Sour Ale, if I may call it so, is on the other hand very exciting, especially as it takes root in the tuns of brewers around the country. A pioneering success!

rating: 84/100

Russian River Sanctification

Stephane — Sat, 10 Mar 2007 19:20:18 +0000

Bright gold to the light and veiled in a hazy orange glow, dense cobwebs form above. The aroma is bursting with fruit and sourness, a complex sweetness, a Belgian blonde and lambic hybrid. Banana, passion fruit and peach esters appear at the forefront gently veiling a baked brown sugar and vanilla aspect that in conjunction with juicy cherries reminds of clafoutis. A squeeze of lime, ample green apples, sour apricots and marshmallow add to the complex and energetic nose. The sourness of cooked apricots becomes prominent on the tongue, alongside cherry, banana and peach. The light lambic-like sourness features hints of lemon zest and noble hops but doesn’t burden the taste buds. The result is a very refreshing brew, complex and light in alcohol that would drink wonderfully on a summer day. The tart aftertaste dissipates rapidly leaving an enjoyable apricot flavor to work on before your next sip. Though it doesn’t match the intensity and complexity of my favorite gueuzes, the Sanctification seems far more appropriate to crack on a sweaty day - I just wish Russian River would bottle them small so I could cellar a few for such occasions.

rating: 86/100

Struise Rosse

Stephane — Tue, 18 Jul 2006 08:15:26 +0000

This beer was very generously donated to me by Urbain when I visited the brewery over a month ago. The Rosse pours a deep hazy red, darker than I expected but beautiful nonetheless and topped of a fizzy cream head that rapidly recedes. Some of the brown sugar and cinnamon character I had noticed in the Earth Monk and Pannepot Reserva barrel samples was present again, an aroma that reminds of Speculoos cookies and is becoming to me a defining house trait. A blend of nutmeg, black pepper, cloves and almonds gives the nose a spicy tone elevated by the sweetness of banana, nougat and acacia honey. A note of rosé adds to the complexity which is surprisingly apparent despite the cold temperature of the liquid. Light malts become dominant on the palate, especially coffee and caramel flavors that are subtly laced with the crisp citrussy twang of lemon and grapefruit. The spicy tonalities I had found in the nose were not nearly as noticeable in the flavor, and could have been more present especially in building a more distinctive profile. I found the carbonation a little too tingling on the tongue but the texture was otherwise enjoyable and leaves a pleasant yeasty pepper aftertaste. A nice beer but one that could use a more defining and unique character in the flavor, as it stands the combination seems a bit bland.

rating: 68/100

Westvleteren Blond

Stephane — Mon, 26 Jun 2006 11:05:00 +0000

For my first passage at the eminent abbey of St. Sixtus, I settled to stop by the controversial In de Vrede, and see what the fuss is about. Sitting myself at one of the large tables, I ordered the Blond and a side of cheese. To my right a lone smoker sat with his beer, while the two noisy families on my right were enjoying a meal with theirs. I must say these are rather poor conditions for such a ceremonial event, but I took my chance anyway. Poured and slipped under my nose in an instant, the beer was topped of a beautiful white foam that slowly diminished leaving a sticky lace evenly across the surface. Below, a rather sickly looking liquid gravitated in the glass, an ochre tint that seemed somehow unappealing, perhaps due to the sooty grey table it was sitting on. As I brought the chalice to my nose, the only smell I could sense came from the miasma crowding the room. With effort, I began to detect light estery notes, bubble gum and banana especially, followed by pepper, chalk and cream. A refreshing fragrance but somewhat bland, I must concede. The strong tingling of carbonation first collides with the tongue, but subsequently reveals a spicy flavor of pepper and coriander mixed with mango and wheat. Again, a lack of depth surprises me, as the finishing bitterness of Belgian hops strikes my palate. I consciously make an effort to perceive the subtleties, but can’t, and end my glass in a quaff. This one deserves another chance.

rating: 68/100

De Dolle Oeral

Stephane — Sat, 17 Jun 2006 12:53:54 +0000

I noticed the cap was labeled JUN05, and assumed my sole specimen was bottled on that date as I had purchased it only a few months ago from De Bierkoning in Amsterdam. When I found out it was the drink by date, I decided I had better give it a taste right away. My pour was a bit overzealous and resulted in an immense fuzzy white head that condenses to a fluffy layer on top and reveals the apple juice body beneath. Yeast, and a cider-like sourness emerge along with aromas of Champagne, white grapes, coriander, pepper, cloves and a touch of smoked ham. A rather bucolic aroma that progresses to the tongue with the addition of light grains (wheat) and a dry bitter finish that blends hops, coffee and chalky notes. The surprising smoky flavor becomes increasingly conspicuous as the beer warms and adds a definite touch of originality to this brew. The initially prominent carbonation recedes rapidly to yield a smooth creamy texture. Another success for De Dolle.

rating: 72/100

Urthel Novicius Vertus

Stephane — Fri, 16 Jun 2006 19:41:12 +0000

My experience with Urthel before drinking Novicius Vertus had led me to believe that their beers were considerably underrated by the general community. I was hoping my third experience would only further these thoughts, and perhaps demonstrate that one can still brew a tasty beer within the house of Belgium’s heaviest hands. Of course, neither result would diminish the quality of the Samaranth and Hibernus Quentum, but I found to my regret a rather mediocre effort in this third trial. Novicius Vertus begins with a contrastingly magnificent pour, a dark maroon liquid speckled of sparse particles and lofted to a terrific spongy head folded in a velvety blanket atop. The scent seems initially sealed by the thick foam, but with persistence one begins to detect a sylvan aroma of must, wood, aged Brie, green vegetables (particularly Brussels sprouts) and the sweet touch of milk chocolate. The timid nose, is actually fairly agreeable but lacks a certain depth and complexity especially in the sugars. Light malts become far more apparent on the tongue as caramel and biscuits blend with the finishing bitterness and roasted flavor of barely green coffee beans. Again the complexity is quite transparent and allows the relatively low alcohol content (5.9%) to appear more prominently than it should. Disappointing, but we’ll see what happens with the next of their offerings.

rating: 62/100