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Russian River Beatification #

★★★★½
Aug 31st 2007 , ,

As a beautiful dense cloud forms with the pour, the foam creams at the center progressing to a cobwebby state on the periphery. The clear apricot color is deceiving as Beatification’s aroma carries more weight than a traditional lambic-like ale, actually hybridizing with the Flemish sour style. Red cherries, vanilla extract and brown sugar are the distinct signature of a Flanders red, along with accessory fragrances of raisin, grape juice, bubble gum and cotton candy. However, the lighter oaking and subtle scents of clementine, sour apple, lilac and butter are closer to what one would expect of a gueuze. Progressing to the palate reveals an astonishing balancing act. The flavor begins with a dry barnyard sourness accompanied by clementine that soon evolves to involve Gruyère, cherries, brown sugar, vanilla and peaches. The creamy sweetness is in perfect equilibrium with parching sourness and light but vivid carbonation. The result is so refreshing and easy to drink that you forget how complex it really is. As the beer opens up, it reveals a sweet floral flavor of honeysuckle and soapy pineapple. Finishing with a short burst of apricot sourness, a touch of mineral water relieves the acidity leaving only a sticky light brown sugar aftertaste. Beatification is the epitome of Russian River’s efforts with wild fermentation and the outcome is on par with the very best examples of Belgium. It is safe to say that this is not a Flemish Sour, but the pioneering efforts of brewers like Vinnie Cilurzo should be applauded especially when they successfully exceed our current nomenclature of sour ales. (Batch 001)

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