effervescent refractions

Poured a clear gold, the fuzzy white head dissipates with unfortunate haste. Luckily, the aroma it reveals is absolutely enthralling by its complexity. Monstrous oak rages at first, unleashing a profusion of vanillin. Soon, an oddly nostalgic scent sets in – a combination of aromas that reminds very vividly of childhood carnivals. The ever-present pony stand is in full frame, and from it emanate funky aromas of straw and manure. Sweet smells of nearby vendors begin to pour in. I would have begun tugging at my mother’s dress and pointing at the caramelized apples and fluffy clouds of bright pink cotton candy, but this time I sunk my nose deeper in the glass. Rapidly, the fragrance transitions through a beautiful range of fragrances, starting sweet with brown sugar and raw cane sugar, following with allspice, apricot, peach, orange, blackcurrant and white raisins. My patience begins to dwindle and I take a swift gulp. An explosion of sweet fruit coats the palate, balanced by a springy sourness and a dollop of cream. Apricot and hints of Gruyère lend a funky fruit flavor, enthusiastically accompanied by tangy yogurt. The fruit is full of sunshine evoking, red apples, white grapes, peach, orange, raspberry and red groseilles. Vanilla ice cream acts as a rich and cool counterweight giving the finishing touch of banana its thickness. The sweet and sour combination is precisely tuned and a pulpy apple texture leaves the palate satisfied. The only complaint that to me resonates throughout Tomme Arthur’s oeuvre, and particularly this brew, is the decidedly over-oaked flavor which I am afraid is invading the American beer market as it already has the wine. The inception of an American Sour Ale, if I may call it so, is on the other hand very exciting, especially as it takes root in the tuns of brewers around the country. A pioneering success!