effervescent refractions

As my lambic week-end came to a close, I decided I ought to give De Cam’s geuze a try for the sake of being thorough (not to mention my love of the style). Up until then, my knowledge of the spontaneously-fermented covered a healthy range but one involving above all the primary protagonists, which sadly seem to be swamping what used to be a rich and diverse tradition. Nonetheless one can only respect the few remaining brewers untainted by the sweet smell of money, and De Cam is surely one of them. Served in the classic tumbler (though not my glassware of choice), this geuze appeared golden and clear, not exceptionally attractive in color but topped of a resplendent alpine head - dense, spongy and coalescing to a husky hoop. To the nose, sweet dried fruits composed a mingling array introduced by raisin and banana, followed by the juicier pear and apple aroma. A noticeable blend of mild cheddar and gouda produced the necessary funk profile, to which the acrimonious scent of rubber added an unpleasant tonality. Proceeding to the tongue, one notices all the basic elements of geuze notably a dry sourness, hints of apple and rubber again, but generally a lack of originality and direction. While some blenders emphasize the sour, others the fruit, and others yet the barnyard scents, I found that De Cam took a very primordial approach which I suppose allows a certain accessibility but seems merely the sketch of a great geuze. The finishing cheesy note and lightly nutty aftertaste does redeem this nevertheless excellent example, but it is clearly not one of the phenomenal.