effervescent refractions

Belle-Vue has sadly become yet another symbol of the crumbling lambic tradition and one more strike on the shortening list of obstructionists. Yet, like many of the brewery’s coconspirators its roots lies in a very tangible and rather exceptional product. I was lucky enough to try the Gueuze Sélection, one of the few remaining examples due for extinction. The vintage was 1999 and poured a burnt orange body wreathed in mirabelle yellow highlights and a ring of white foam. The nose is filled with a myriad of luscious fruits. Apricot, cherry, orange, lemon, apple and melon liqueur share the scene with a tint of vanilla and a chewy, cheesy character that I can’t quite put my finger on. There’s a definite individuality pronounced by the aroma, dissociating this gueuze from any other and defining the personality of the blender. I find it fascinating to notice within the style’s very restrictive palette, tones repeatedly emphasized by the artist and unique aspects found in none other. The flavor of Belle-Vue’s Sélection parades this even further with intensely and almost gratuitously sour mordant which serves to underscore the smelly socks, Comté-like pungency. Apricot and lemon tones echo what can be salvaged from the fruity fragrance as an attempt to leverage the lacerating acidity while its well carbonated texture tells me this lambic may still be on its way to a peak. While I prefer the refined and more balanced offerings of the region, it was truly an experience to remember.