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De Dolle Oerbier #

★★★★½

Not that De Dolle’s Oerbier doesn’t deserve a praiseful preamble, but being a rather complicated beer in itself, a conversely simple review reflects the simple nature of its excellence. That said, Oerbier begins with an exciting and dynamic pour, the rich brown liquid flickers of chestnut red highlights and its massive bisque-colored head puffs up such that the assemblage resembles a billowing marshmallow over the fire. The aroma is a magical blend of sweet fruits, spices, flowery and malty tones tickling the nose down to the tastebuds. Cherries, prunes, apple, hazelnut and banana flow into scents of vanilla, cinnamon and cardamom laced with a soapy lavender and rose mixture which itself brings forth the deep coffee, brown sugar, Burgundy and chocolate background. The complexity is astounding. Coffee and dark chocolate are at first apparent on the tongue, but estery bubble gum follows and liberates a flood of flavors ranging across the bitter, sour and sweet, all at once. Explosive. Brown sugar reverberates the buttery malts while ginger, clove and coriander entertain the almond and alcohol notes themselves ambuscaded by orange syrup. My tongue performs contortionistic tricks and my brain no less, trying to process the onslaught; but as the long dry finish unfolds sequential flavors of coffee beans softening to cherries and finally coconut all I can think is “Wow”. This brew is full of surprises, especially in its distinct sourness that seems so suddenly appropriate. As it warms the particularly present spices attenuate to form a progressively smoother palate. As I said, beyond complicated, this is a very simply excellent beer.

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