effervescent refractions

Following my recent and rather lauding appraisal of the familial White Label, this beer could not have built more anticipation. This unfiltered version poured an expectably hazier and denser body, but its resinous pumpkin hue was no less alluring. The white foam rapidly recedes revealing a plethora of mouth-watering scents. Fruits are more noticeable on the forefront, particularly sweet apricots, peaches and a wonderful smultron aroma that accompanies those of sour apple and pear. Some of the tangy, terroir odors of Gruyère and grass that were so strong in the White Label are present here, in an albeit diluted fashion. A malty background composed of brown sugar and toffee highlighted by vanilla and oak, give the nose a very complete and balanced feel. The flavor benefits of a comparable evolution beginning with a dry, woody, Champagne explosion on the tip of the tongue, progressively shifting to a buttery, coating mouthfeel that resonates of caramel and honey flavors, sustained by a fruitier background of cherries and lemon. Somewhat rounder, softer, perhaps a tad more sour than the White Label and with notably less funk from the cheese and spice section. Emmental is nonetheless present in the long aftertaste, accentuated by notes of pepper and toast. Another exceptional gueuze that, to my palate, rises just above its filtered sibling by virtue of an incredibly pleasing texture, though it offers a slightly different bouquet. Both are worth your effort.