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Girardin Gueuze White Label #

★★★★½
Jun 21st 2006 , , ,

An absolutely magnificent gueuze, the clear pomegranate body glints of oscillating pinkish and blazing orange hues beneath a light beige mousse that dwindles to a thin bubbly film circumscribed by an austere ring. The nose immediately reminds of sour fruits, particularly apple and mouth-watering cherries. Champagne, white grapes, orange and dragées are also present suggestive of a certain sweetness that binds the strong terroir odors of cheese and spices. Gorgonzola and sharp Gruyère form a distinctive musty aroma associated with those of ham and pepper that leave me salivating before my glass. The first contact with the tongue reveals a dry carbonation, flavors of Champagne and grapefruit which rapidly flow into a much sweeter, almost sticky sensation of apple juice, acacia honey, oak and wet straw. The finish is dusty and dry, leading to a triumphant aftertaste that coats the palate and lingers with fantastic complexity. Soft cow cheeses are very present, reminding particularly of Emmental and Chimay à la bière especially in its grassy apricot notes. I actually had a center cut of Emmental on the side and the match was simply divine - my taste buds are piqued by the thought alone. I was amazed to find it widely considered the “lesser” version of the Black Label, though I should mention my bottle was well aged (a few months past its best before date), which may have contributed to its wonderful pungency. A truly exquisite beer.

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