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Allagash White #

★★★½☆
May 30th 2006 , ,

In my secretive quest to find a witbier that betters Hoegaarden, many have fallen at the knees of the juggernaut that it is. In theory it seems highly plausible as one might call witbiers, as a style, fairly mild and lucid. Yet the balance of these timid brews is the key that unlocks such delicate complexity. Allagash’s White is yet another example of a wit that came close, but as Perrault reminds us in Cinderella, simply does not fit. In appearance it is as dainty and ethereal as any other of its genre, but shrouded in a veil that just transpares its unctuous golden mango body. Under the white crown an inconspicuous aroma of pineapple, pear and yeast is loosely laced together. The flavor simply reminds of mineral water touched with lemon and the whisper of fatigued cloves and coriander. Allagash’s effort lacks just a soupçon of presence and character - so I ask, who will adorn the glass slipper?

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