effervescent refractions

The bottle was marked for drinking before then end of 2006 and seemed the oldest of my Abbaye des Rocs lineup, so I decided to give it a try. Even with cautious use of my bottle opener, an eruption of foam bubbled out the semi-open seal. As I poured into my Trappist glass, a voluptuous cappuccino head fluffed up from the deep sanguine body. Suddenly, the volcanic container began to ineluctably vomit a legion of large chunks. From experience, attempting to decant the liquid is absolutely futile, and I would instead suggest capitulating to the valuable nuggets by gently stirring the bottle halfway through to homogenize the mixture. What resulted from this nearly disastrous pour, was actually more than potable.

The nose is powerful and striking in richness and complexity. Initially pineapple and chocolate dominate in a surprisingly agreeable blend and with minimal effort one can dissect the three chocolates in the aroma. Dark, milk and white are equally present and create a smooth creamy yet slightly bitter character. With a second sniff, café au lait appears in conjunction with a thick bready odor that provides a dusty and slightly musty aspect continually accumulating in complexity. The dynamism of Montagnarde’s nose makes it difficult to untangle as each inhalation reveals new scents. The general aroma feels earthy and smooth, malty and yeasty but also fruity and spicy. Green vegetables such as artichoke and string beans are present and reflect the slightly caramelized, brown sugar sweetness that one might find blended in nouvelle cuisine. Figs, plums, banana, apple and vanilla appear as soon as you think of fruit. Irish cream emanates from the background leaving a buttery yet slightly sweet alcoholic tinge in the nose. A woody and gradually spicier fragrance becomes noticeable as the liquid warms.

Finally, I take a sip. Beautiful lacing covers the glass and slides down phlegmaticly as it leaves a speckled painting reminiscent of Jackson Pollock’s work. Coffee and vegetables appear first: carrots, green beans, brussel sprouts, flavors skip from one to the next as the liquid wraps smoothly around the tongue. Goat cheese, meat, steak sauce, bread, a veritable dinner in a bottle! L’Abbaye des Rocs’ Montagnarde is what Willy Wonka’s gum must be like. A substantial brew that displays incredible complexity, an instant favorite. The creaminess of sweetened fromage blanc emerges in conjunction with caramel, butter and a slight burnt character. Spices mark the final touch as the velvety liquid ends in a bloom of milky flavors and the gentle trace of alcohol. The description is spot on with gingerbread in that finishing gust of spices which also includes black pepper, cinnamon, anis, cardamom and nutmeg. A brilliant concoction that has left me tremendously impressed.